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Excerpts From Green Remodeling

Green Remodeling

by David Johnston and Kim Master
January 18, 2005
HousingZone

Chapter 6
... One Room at a Time

Green RemodelingSo you want an efficient, resourceful, healthy kitchen that will change the world? We'll help you. We've divided this chapter into a room-by-room survey to give you an overview of the stages of the building process for each particular remodeling project - so you can make connections to our more indepth coverage of specific green features in later chapters.

Keep in mind that, underlying this simple format, we are still considering the house as a whole. In other words, the addition of a large bathtub might add 1,200 pounds to the load capacity of the floor, which will require additional structural support - and this in turn will have an effect on such things as adjoining walls or pipes that service the entire house.

The descriptions of remodeling for each room are by no means complete: there are always more innovative ideas that can be applied to specific situations and, as technology improves, new ways to save energy and resources, improve air quality, and so on. Use the room descriptions as a guide for discussion with your architect and contractor, and refer to the checklist at the end of each description to locate more information on specific features. Always keep an open mind to new ideas - and choose whatever works best for your renovation project.

The Bathroom
Most people renovate their bathroom to upgrade old fixtures and, in the course of remodeling, find they need to repair water damage. As discussed in Chapter 5, excess moisture not only causes house materials to rot, but can also result in serious health issues. We'll show you ways to control bathroom moisture that will result in improved comfort, better air quality, and lower utility bills. We will also discuss other important bathroom remodeling issues, including low-impact construction and water- and electricity-saving strategies.

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Job Site and Landscaping
As you plan for your bathroom remodel, try to build with as little impact as possible. This means recycling job site waste and salvaging reusable materials.That avocado green sink may look hideous to you, but could be someone else'streasure. In fact, maybe you want an avocado green sink that someone donatedor could use the sink you are replacing in a second bathroom - be resourcefulwhen looking for replacement bathroom features! Old lumber, door and window casings, and baseboards can all be reused when they are removed carefully. When reusing old materials is not possible, some companies can recycle them. For example, porcelain toilets and other ceramics can be recycled into concrete, and metal bathtubs can be used for making steel.Contact your local waste management authority for recycling information specific to your neighborhood.

Structural Framing
If you want to change the size or shape of your bathroom, this will probably entail taking down walls. Some walls you can demolish yourself, depending on the type of wall. Load-bearing walls - the walls that literally hold up the house - can be altered, but this requires new structural support in the form of a beam supported by posts on either side of the room. In addition, temporary wood frame walls will be needed to support the structure above until the new wall is in place. This work can be intensive, and is best completed by a professional. However, you can easily cut into or tear down non-bearing walls yourself without damaging the adjacent structures. You still need to be on the lookout for plumbing leaks - even if you have a professional work on the project, he could inadvertently break a pipe and cause a leak, or cut live electrical wires. Look for obstacles ahead of time to avoid unnecessary expenses and hardship.

Opening walls in your bathroom is a great opportunity to redo bad wiring or plumbing. You can also replace any rotted or damaged wood, repair leaks that have gone unnoticed, check to see if you have adequate insulation in the exterior walls, and caulk cracks in the structure so that air doesn't leak through.

Plumbing
First, look at what kind of pipes you have. If your home was built before 1950, you may have lead pipes that should be replaced! Otherwise, cast iron, steel or plastic drainpipes are adequate, as are copper, brass, and steel. Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes can also be used; although the PVC manufacturing process produces toxins, the pipes are durable and affordable, and won't need to be replaced for a long time. Second, if you've opened up bathroom walls, consider moving the plumbing from outside walls to interior walls where heat from your home will keep the pipes warmer. Insulating the hot water pipes will further reduce heat loss through the piping.

To save water, add an "on-demand" hot water circulation pump that can send hot water to fixtures in seconds without wasting water while you wait for it to get hot. Some jurisdictions allow households to use greywater (all waste water except toilet water) for outdoor watering use or as toilet-flushing water. Although you need to be especially careful what you put down the drains, this will dramatically reduce water use around your home. If this is not currently allowed in your neighborhood or is too costly, you may consider "pre-plumbing" while the walls are open during renovation - installing the plumbing necessary for later greywater use to make this retrofit easier and less costly in the future.

When buying a new toilet, look for models with less than 1.6 gpf (gallons per flush). Likewise, look for low-flow bathroom faucets and showerheads that produce an adequate flow, but use 60 percent less water by combining the water with air pressure. This not only decreases your water consumption, but also lowers your water bill and reduces your impact on the local water treatment system. If you buy a large whirlpool tub, make sure you have it installed before new framing makes it difficult to fit the tub in the bathroom. You may have to add an additional water heater to fill the tub entirely. This is a great time to install a tankless unit. (See Chapter 17 for more on tankless water heaters.)

Additionally, faucets and showers can be equipped with filters to make your water safer to drink and less irritating for sensitive individuals to bathe in. Carbon filters are an inexpensive option for most people who desire cleaner-tasting water. Chlorine can be an issue if you suffer from eczema or have sensitive skin, in which case you may want to purchase an additional carbon filter for your showerhead.

Electrical
Bathrooms may be small, but they need good overall lighting and task lighting for washing, shaving, and applying makeup. Incandescent bulbs are standard for home lighting but they waste a lot of energy. Fluorescent tubes and compact fluorescent bulbs are significantly more energy-efficient for general and vanity lighting. Fluorescent lighting has improved vastly over the past decade - it is now available in flattering light (as opposed to the older cool, bluish color), and with dimming options that enable you reduce the light energy output. Compact fluorescent bulbs are similarly effective for task lighting. Although fluorescent bulbs cost more initially, you'll definitely save money on your electric bills and replacement bulb costs over time.

Another option for recessed or indirect lights is halogen lighting. These produce as much light as incandescent lights but use half the power. Use halogens for mood lighting and to light specific features, like glass block. While you are in the walls it is a good opportunity to wire for music for that perfect night with candles and bubble bath....

Keep in mind that lights over showers or other wet areas need a waterproof housing. Also, it saves energy to wire different lights to different switches so that you can turn on only the lights you need in the bathroom at a given time.

Radiant electrical panels are wonderful for when you're sitting in the tub or while you're drying off. They can be mounted on a wall or ceiling, and they heat you rather than the air. They can be put on a timer or controlled with a switch (see "Install Zoned, Hydronic, Radiant Heating" in Chapter 16).

If you are doing serious rewiring, put in a separate circuit for electrical devices. A hair dryer alone can use up most of a circuit's capacity. Add extra "his and hers" plugs.

Insulation
As we mentioned briefly in the above framing section, renovating your bathroom is a great time to upgrade your insulation, because the walls are already open. The bathroom is where you want to stay the warmest. If possible, add new insulation in the form of rigid foam board on the inside of the framing. Insulating just to code doesn't mean that it will keep you comfortable when you are wet in cold winter months; how much insulation you need also depends on your climate. Check the existing insulation to see how thick it is, and if it is evenly distributed so that heat does not escape through gaps. Also check for water damage or compaction, which can reduce the effectiveness of insulation. (Water damage can take the form of blackened wood - a sign of mold or rot - or obvious water marks.) When installing new insulation, fill the area around the tub: this helps keep drafts down and the tub warm. The most efficient, resourceful, and safe types of insulation include recycled-content fiberglass, and cellulose insulation. Make sure the insulation stays dry after it is installed; water vapor inside the wall can condense when it meets cool outer layers, causing rot and harmful mold growth. A vapor barrier installed on the warm side of the insulation can also prevent moisture from getting into the floor, ceiling, or walls.

Always use advanced infiltration reduction practices to further save energy in leak-prone areas. This includes using a low-toxic sealant around plumbing fixtures, such as the hole in the subfloor around the tub drain, and use rubber gaskets behind electrical outlets. The trap under the tub should be sealed well too, since the plumbing pipes go all the way down to the ground, and it is a typical place for drafts to occur.

Energy
Windows in bathrooms are important for many reasons. First, bathrooms without any windows at all are illegal in many jurisdictions because the windows provide necessary ventilation. Second, a large window can make the room brighter, resulting in proven mood-uplifting effects. Third, leaky windows can waste a lot of energy, therefore efficient double-paned windows with reflective or lowemissivity film can effectively keep unwanted heat or cold outside your bathroom. Try not to put the window directly over the bath or in the shower area. This can can cause condensation problems when the steam hits the cool window surface. Vinyl or fiberglass window frames will also minimize the potential for condensation damage, and are a better option than wood or aluminum. Other options include well-insulated skylights or a smaller, more efficient solar tube that effectively brings light in through a reflective pipe.

Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)
Fixing up an existing bathroom generally does not require changing air registers, radiators, or baseboard heaters - usually it can simply be "retuned" by a heating contractor. A new bathroom, however, will require an extra heat register or radiator installed by a professional, usually with no extra strain on the heating system. Make sure the workers use duct mastic on duct joints rather than lesseffective duct tape. The new ductwork should be installed in conditioned (or insulated) walls rather than in walls facing the outside of your home, where energy can more easily escape from the pipes.

Ventilation requirements are usually stipulated in the building code for each jurisdiction. Often the code will state that you need to have either an operable window or a fan to get rid of unwanted moisture caused by showering and bathing. We recommend that a fan be installed in any case - you don't want to open a window in the winter! The fan should be energy-efficient and should be vented to the outside. Most people prefer quiet fans under two "sones" - when they are quiet they tend to get used more often. If extensive HVAC work is being considered, keep in mind that a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) can transfer heat from outgoing bathroom exhaust air to warm the incoming fresh air for the entire house.

Water Heating
If the current water heater is old or if you'll be using a lot more water because of a new whirlpool bath, you'll need an upgrade, such as a more efficient water heater with an energy factor (EF) of .60 or higher. Tankless water heaters are a more expensive option, but they save water, energy, and petroleum resources by heating water as it is needed. Installing a heat trap will help minimize water heat loss by preventing thermosiphoning. (See "Upgrading Your Water Heater" in Chapter 17.) If you decide to keep your existing water heater, consider an insulating jacket that works like a winter coat to keep heat in. It costs only about $10 to $20 and reduces heat lost through the tank by 25 to 40 percent.

Interior Materials/Finishes
Bathroom finishes should be attractive, water-resistant, and healthy. Some people use wallpaper, but we do not recommend this option because moisture can get behind the paper (especially vinyl wallpaper), and cause mold growth. Also, avoid using particleboard and medium-density fiberboard (MDF) in cabinets and substrates under counter tops. Choose exterior-grade plywood or a formaldehydefree alternative (see "Formaldehyde" in Chapter 5). If you do use particleboard or MDF, use a low-toxic sealant, such as water-based, low-VOC paint to keep the unwanted vapors trapped in the material.

Solid wood can be a healthy alternative. The best woods to use are Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)-certified with a low-VOC, water-based wood finish. Sustainably harvested FSC wood is also available for trim material. If you decide to paint the finish, use a hard wearing, washable, low- or no-VOC and formaldehyde-free paint that minimizes indoor air pollution.

Ceramic tiles are a popular finish because they are water-resistant, washable, and don't need a painted finish. Look for a low-toxic grout to fill the areas between the tiles. Natural stone, like marble or slate, is a more expensive option, but is extremely water-resistant and is a healthy, beautiful element to add around showers, tubs, or other areas of the room. Like ceramic tile, stone is a durable material that will save resources and energy because it will rarely need replacing. For all bathroom materials, select low-VOC adhesives and sealers when they are required to minimize toxins in your indoor environment.

Flooring, like other bathroom finishes, should be durable, water-resistant, and washable. We do not recommend carpeting - it traps dirt and moisture that leads to unhealthy mold growth. Use small, washable rugs for softer surfaces in specific areas of the bathroom. The best flooring options are hard or smooth surfaces, recycled-content ceramic tile, and natural linoleum. Ceramic floor tiles, larger and thicker than walls tiles, are easily cleaned and long-lived. Some floor tiles are made from stone. Dense or vitreous tiles are the most moistureresistant. Tiles should be installed with low-toxic grout and adhesive when possible.

Natural linoleum is the preferred alternative to vinyl. Although similar in appearance to vinyl, natural linoleum is made from natural materials including linseed oil, jute, and wood dust. It is durable, available in a variety of patterns and colors, and can be installed without toxic adhesives.

The Kitchen
Redoing the kitchen is the number one renovation project. We spend a lot time there, cooking, eating, or just lounging around, so it might as well be the best room in the house. Fixing up the kitchen also has a tremendous impact on the resale value of your home, and can be a great investment. Like the other rooms in this chapter, we will divide our discussion of the kitchen into the generic categories basic to remodeling projects (site, plumbing, electrical, etc.) and emphasize an important upgrade for the kitchen when considering energy use - appliances.

Job Site and Landscaping
It is always a good idea to try to reuse materials in the kitchen, from countertops and ceramic dishware to flooring and appliances. Check your regional waste management authority to find out who can use the materials you don't want. If a material can be reused, look into recycling it; construction materials, glass, fluorescent light bulbs, telephones, sinks, and appliances can all be recycled.

As you're designing your kitchen, think about creating a space that won't have to be remodeled again, thereby saving energy and resources in the future. You should be able to move around three key cooking areas - the stove, the sink, and the refrigerator - easily. Consider adding features that allow you to do more than just cook and eat - like adding a small desk in an unused space or creating an area for entertaining. Also, installing a recycling center into the cabinetry makes recycling kitchen waste more convenient.

Structural Framing
For information regarding structural changes you may need to make to the kitchen, please refer to Chapter 9, Structural Framing.

Plumbing
As long as you do not move or add plumbing fixtures, you can use existing hookups for a new sink or dishwasher. More drastic changes may require new plumbing. Try to avoid moving your sink, because this can significantly increase the cost of the job. Again, if your house was built before 1950, the pipes may be lead, in which case they need to be replaced to protect your health (see "Lead" in Chapter 5, and "Lead" in Appendix 1.)

For minimal cost, you can insulate your hot water pipes so that energy does not escape as you are running water. To further save water, install a low-flow faucet that uses less water but with seemingly no effect on water pressure because the spray is mixed with air.

Water quality can be improved simply by adding a carbon filter to your tap. Each water filtration method filters distinct pollutants from the water, so you should find out what's in your water from your regional water authority before you purchase a filter. (See "Water Quality" in Chapter 5).

Electrical
In general, people prefer bright kitchens. While light colors and big windows help, good general lighting and task lighting will provide for the best cooking, eating, and socializing environment, any time of day or night. The most energy-efficient lights are fluorescent and halogen lights. Energy-efficient dimmers are available that can create an intimate dining area. You can also save energy by wiring lights to different switches, allowing you to illuminate specific areas of the kitchen. For safety and energy-saving purposes, recessed lights should be labeled "IC-AT," meaning they're designed for direct insulation contact and an airtight housing.

In terms of circuitry, new appliances may require new circuits and/or upgrading of existing circuitry. Many old kitchens can overload existing circuits, causing a fire hazard. Stoves need a heavy-duty circuit, and other appliances also need their own circuits. New circuits in the kitchen are a good investment since there will always be a new gadget to plug in.

Insulation
If you've opened up walls in your kitchen for the renovation, this is a cost-effective time to upgrade your insulation. Uneven insulation distribution and blackened wood or other signs of moisture damage are indications that your insulation needs to be replaced. Otherwise, you might just consider adding more insulation to improve the comfort and overall energy-efficiency of your home. Green insulation options include recycled content cellulose, cotton batts made from trimmings in jeans factories, and recycled-content fiberglass. Advanced infiltration reduction practices will also help you save energy. This involves looking out for leaks in doors, windows, plumbing, ducting, and electrical wire, and penetrations through exterior walls, floors, ceilings, and soffits over cabinets. Leaks should be sealed with a low-toxic caulk, sealant, or expansive foam.

Solar Energy
Windows can make the kitchen significantly brighter and will help to open the room up. Purchase the most energy-efficient windows you can afford for optimum energy-savings and comfort. At a minimum, they should be lowemissivity (low-E) windows that block out unwanted heat during the summer, while allowing in plenty of sunlight, and should have low-conductivity frames like vinyl or wood. You may want to shade windows with overhangs or landscape features to prevent your kitchen from overheating in the summer.

Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC)
Unless you are adding major space to the kitchen, you won't need extra heating for this room. However, you may want to relocate a register in the kickspace under your kitchen counter to fit a new design. If you are putting in new flooring or there is an unfinished basement below, you might also consider radiant floor heating, which uses water in tubes under the floor to deliver heat to the room. Not only does this make typically cold kitchen floors warmer, but it heats objects instead of air - efficiently making you more comfortable. As with all rooms in the house, ducts should be sealed with duct mastic for greatest efficiency, because duct tape deteriorates over time.

Given all the moisture created while cooking, ventilation should be a top priority in the kitchen to avoid mold, odors, and harmful combustion gases caused by cooking. Operable windows are always a good idea, but an impractical solution for many homeowners in the winter. A range hood directly over the stove effectively carries pollutions and odors outside through an air duct to the outside. Vent hoods are mounted on a cabinet above the stove, while canopy hoods hang down from the ceiling over stoves on an island. The noise of fans is measured in sones: the lower the sone (typically below 2.0) the better.

Appliances
The three major appliances in your kitchen are the stove or range, the refrigerator, and the dishwasher. For ranges, be wary of gas stoves, which tend to emit harmful combustion gases, including carbon monoxide and nitrogen dioxide (see "Combustion Gases" in Chapter 5). Most range hoods fail to vent all of these toxins sufficiently, but to improve their effectiveness, position the range hood as close to the stove as possible. Sealed combustion gas stoves have their own air supply and exhaust, which prevents unwanted gases from getting into the kitchen air. They work a bit slower than conventional gas ovens, but are significantly healthier. Look for the EnergyStar® label on a new range to ensure you purchase the most energy-efficient model you can afford.

Refrigerator efficiency has improved significantly over the past decade, but it is still the biggest energy user in the kitchen. Don't buy a bigger fridge than you need, as this will only increase its energy consumption. Likewise, keeping your old one for extra food storage will only increase your energy bills unnecessarily - it is best to buy a slightly larger new refrigerator that accommodates all your needs. Keep in mind that extra features, like water and ice dispensers, will make your refrigerator less efficient. Likewise, refrigerators with the freezer compartment to the side of the refrigerator are less efficient than models with the freezer door above the refrigerator door. Avoid locating your refrigerator close to heat sources like the stove or microwave that will reduce its cooling efficiency.

Most of the energy required for dishwashers is used to heat the water. Therefore, look for models that heat less water or include a booster heater that allows you to turn your main water heater down to save energy. A heat "on/off " setting allows you to turn off the heat and air-dry dishes to further save energy. Also look for water saving features. Extra-insulated models will operate more quietly.

Interior Materials/Finishes
Although many materials and finishes in a renovated kitchen can potentially cause serious health problems, there are ways to avoid this. For example, the particleboard and medium density fiberboard (MDF) used to make kitchen cabinets and counters contain urea formaldehyde glue which can cause a range of health issues (see "Formaldehyde" in Chapter 5). The toxins can be sealed into the materials with several coats of a water-based sealant, preferably at the factory, before the material gets into your home. Better, you can purchase exterior-grade plywood that contains less toxic phenol formaldehyde, or formaldehyde-free medium density fiberboard (MDF).

Your best - but likely most expensive - option is custom cabinets made from solid wood, and solid surface countertops, which are durable and healthy. Finger-jointed wood is an excellent option for trim because it uses smaller diameter wood by joining the pieces like intertwined fingers, creating a stronger piece of wood which might otherwise have been cut from a larger tree. Also, use low- or no-VOC, formaldehyde-free paints, low-VOC wood finishes, and solvent-free adhesives where they are applicable. In general, paints are better for indoor air quality than wood finishes, but remember that the shinier and darker the paint, the more likely it is to offgas toxins into your living space. Calculate finish needs beforehand to avoid wasted leftovers; store, donate, or recycle finishes when leftovers are unavoidable.

Kitchen floors should be durable and washable, because chances are things will spill on the floor while people are cooking or eating. (My dogs also do a good job of making their own mud artwork on the kitchen floor.) The best options are wood, ceramic tile, exposed concrete, or natural linoleum. Wood should be FSCcertified or come from a natural, rapidly-renewable resources like bamboo, to avoid cutting down old-growth forests that take hundreds of years to regenerate. Wood is relatively soft and comfortable, but may be damaged with long-term exposure to water; for example, oak turns black with repeated exposure to water. Always use low-toxic adhesives and water-based wood finishes to minimize indoor air pollution.

Recycled-content ceramic tile, stone tile, or exposed concrete are durable surfaces. Concrete can be mixed with various pigments to create beautiful, warm patterns. Although pigment adds to the cost of the concrete, it does not require any finishes or maintenance and therefore is a cost-effective option.

Natural linoleum - not to be mistaken with vinyl flooring - is made from natural materials like linseed oil, jute, cork dust, and wood dust. Unlike vinyl flooring, which offgases toxic vinyl components, this surface is relatively nonirritating (unless you are affected by linseed oil). Natural linoleum is durable, can be finished in solid colors or patterns, and can be installed without the need for adhesives.

Keep in mind that even though carpeting can be warm and cozy on your feet, it is not a recommended kitchen floor option because it traps dirt and moisture. Small, washable mats should be used instead.

Room Additions
The purpose of adding on an addition is to provide more space in you home. Often, it is to take that little box they called the master suite in the '70s and create a contemporary master suite and bath. Perhaps it is a new den so you can all be together after dinner. Whatever drives the project, aesthetics, comfort, health, and functionality are all part of the plan.

It is important that the addition work well with the existing house. There is nothing worse at the end of the job than to look at the house and see a strange protrusion sticking out of one side. Keeping the architecture consistent is important both from an aesthetic standpoint and to the value at the time of resale. Adding a room is an opportunity to improve the comfort and remedy many of the existing problems of the entire house.

Designing an addition is like designing a whole house, and it's an opportunity to think about your house as a system, with the addition a smaller system itself. Virtually everything involved in new construction is encountered in building an addition, especially if you are including a kitchen or a bathroom.

Beginning with the site of the addition and ending with its flooring, we'll show you how to make your additional room as energy-efficient, resourceful, and healthy as possible.


© 2010, Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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